See, What Had Happened Was…[Spilling the Beans.]

Sun-drenched mornings are meant to be orchestrated to the intoxicating tune of percolating coffee. Mornings beg for coffee. As do bagels. And oxygen. This morning was no different. I rolled off my mat on the floor and groggily stumbled into the kitchen-where with great … [Read more...]

Of The UPS Man, African Snow White, and One Too Many Pickles.

And now, ladies and gentlemen, we return to our regular programming. In light of recent distractions, regular programming this week in Dakar just happens to include hopelessly daunting piles of work that need to be finished before Tuesday morning at 5:20 AM [oh, we’ll get there … [Read more...]

S’Wonderful.

Last Thursday began like any other in Dakar. The drunken lullaby of the mosque wafted over my sleepy African city as I slowly awoke, stumbled off the floor, and went to make a pot of hazelnut crème coffee. As I sat curled up on the couch reading and drinking a steaming mug of … [Read more...]

Ashley Elizabeth and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Birthday.

Unspoken rules that govern interactions in polite society dictate the appropriate responses to commonly asked questions. How are you doing? Fine, and you? How do you like my new haircut? It’s simply lovely. Aren’t these scones divine? Heavenly, dear-simply heavenly. In a world … [Read more...]

Invisible. [What He Has Been To Me.]

I’ve told you about Talibe boys before. They’re the barefoot children that wander the streets of Dakar clutching rusty,  tin tomato sauce cans, begging for spare change. They’re part of an organized system-each "works" for one of the many local Islamic cult leaders. They’re … [Read more...]

Of Two Shaved Legs and One Right Mind.

This morning began as a “take-my-coffee-into-the-shower-with-me” kind of morning. You think I’m joking, but I am so. completely. serious. It’s how my sleepy Sunday mornings tend to begin in Senegal-and there’s a method to my madness. You see, our work weeks in Dakar are … [Read more...]